Executive Wine Editor Ray Isle gets rosé season going in the June 2017 issue of Food & Wine, picking seven of his favorites. Among them, the 2016 Mathilde Chapoutier Grand Ferrage! →
Syrah Queen Rupal Shankar, FWS, spends some time with Mathilde Chapoutier, and samples her Côtes de Provence Grand Ferrage Rosé:
Côtes de Provence Grand Ferrage Rosé is her signature wine and is a perfect blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. This is the second vintage she has produced. At first when she approached her father to produce this wine, he was hesitant as he was not a fan of Provence rosés. Mathilde quickly changed his opinion with this wine, producing a dry rosé that Michel loves and drinks regularly. Like Mathilde the wine is versatile, fun and full of charm.
Over the course of our dinner, we immediately sensed Mathilde’s elegance, grace and talent. Not only did she make Côtes de Provence Grand Ferrage Rosé, she also played with her inner artistic talents and designed the label for the wine.
Côtes de Provence Grand Ferrage Rosé (Retail $19.99) has a delicate pink hue and a silky texture that captured my palate. It offered aromatic flavors of red fruit, exotic spice and floral notes. The wine explodes with energetic, vibrant, fresh fruit. Notes of citrus, raspberries, stone fruit, violets and nutmeg danced on the tongue. The wine had infinite persistence with a long mouthwatering finish and is absolutely stunning right till the end. Like wines produced by her father, this rosé, has wonderful structure, juicy acidity, and minerality that captures the essence of the terroir.
See the full story here.
Philip S. Kampe’s said his goal “was to find the quintessential Rose.” It was Grand Ferrage Rosé. He writes:
Mathilde is a new generation winemaker. She does it all-designs the label-makes and markets the wine-and has the spirit of the ‘Flower Power Generation.’
She runs the show.
The 2016 Grand Ferrage is light, fruity and has an inner soul that coats and stays on your palate to tackle all types of food. At a recent lunch, the 2016 Grand Ferrage was put to the test and won-hands down-as a soup to nuts wine-one that was poured with each of the fifteen courses, including several that were gifts from the chef.
See the full story here.
Marisa D’Vari, author of the “A Wine Story” blog, meets and tastes with Mathilde Chapoutier. She writes:
Mathilde is an amazing person — not just because of her fun sense of humor, good nature, and very French charm and beauty, but because she is also hardworking and enormously talented. She designed the label of the bottle herself, a summation of the “feeling” that Rosé wine gives her.
What makes Côtes de Provence Grand Ferrage Rosé a step above other Provence wines for me is the slight tannic edge of the wine, rendering it a great wine to enjoy with food and not just sip by the pool.
See the full story here.
Jeb Dunnuck takes a look back at 2006 Northern Rhônes in the Feb. 28, 2017, Wine Advocate (Issue #229), with several Chapoutier reviews:
2006 M. Chapoutier Ermitage l’Ermite Blanc
The lightest colored of the three whites, the 2006 Ermitage l’Ermite Blanc is unquestionably one of the greatest white wines in the world today. Full-bodied, seamless, silky and yet hugely concentrated, with to-die-for notes of praline, caramelized fruits, liquid rock, toasted almonds and celery seed, it’s the quintessential Hermitage Blanc possessing an incredible amount of fruit and texture paired with elegance, purity and finesse.
2006 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree
More tight and reserved than the open-knit Le Meal Blanc, the 2006 Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree offers a heavenly bouquet of caramelized orchard fruits, celery seed, buttered hazelnuts, orange blossom and white flowers. Just crazy good on the palate, with full-bodied richness and a seamless, unctuous texture, it has incredible purity, precision and length, with this liquid rock-like minerality on the finish. It’s just about as good as it gets, and while it’s drinking great today, it should keep for 2-3 decades.
2006 M. Chapoutier Ermitage le Meal Blanc
Easily the most exuberant and over the top of the three Ermitage Blanc cuvees, the 2006 Ermitage le Meal Blanc is still light gold in color and delivers a pedal-to-the-metal style in its honeysuckle, orange blossom, caramelized stone fruits, celery seed and even a hint of garlic. Deep, full-bodied, layered and seamless on the palate, it’s another wine that’s drinking at point today, yet will keep for another 2-3 decades.
2006 M. Chapoutier Ermitage l’Ermite
More taut, focused and chiseled than the le Pavillon, the blockbuster 2006 Ermitage L’Ermite offers full-bodied richness, a liquid rock-like minerality and sensational notes of black currants, bloody meat, licorice and spice. Reminding me of the 1995, with sensational depth, purity and length, this incredible wine won’t hit maturity for another decade, and will keep for 2-3 decades.
2006 M. Chapoutier Ermitage le Meal
Coming from the warmest terroir on Hermitage Hill, the 2006 Ermitage le Meal is a killer wine that oozes Hermitage notes of black raspberries, saddle leather and bloody meat. Complex, full-bodied, and textured, yet with surprising elegance, it’s an awesome wine to drink anytime over the coming two decades.
2006 M. Chapoutier Ermitage le Pavillon
Showing more minerality than the le Meal, yet more plushness and sexiness than the l’Ermite, the 2006 Ermitage le Pavillon is a tour de force that gives up sensational notes of crushed rocks, blackberries, currants, smoked meats and licorice. It shows a touch of iron and bloodiness with time in the glass, is full-bodied, seamless and incredibly layered on the palate. There’s no shortage of tannin either and this beauty needs 4-5 years of cellaring to hit full maturity, and will keep for another 2-3 decades.
2006 M. Chapoutier St Joseph les Granits Blanc
A wine that punches well above its price point is the 2006 St Joseph les Granits Blanc, and Northern Rhône lovers should buy this cuvee in just about every vintage. Offering lots of complexity in its buttered citrus, apple, white truffle, celery and savory aromas and flavors, this beauty is full-bodied, rich and textured on the palate. Like the other whites from this team, it’s drinking perfectly today, yet should keep for at least another decade or more. Having said that, why push a good thing? Drink!
2006 M. Chapoutier Cote Rotie la Mordoree
The 100% Syrah 2006 Cote Rotie la Mordoree was backward and tight, yet had beautiful concentration, full-bodied richness and classy notes of white pepper, mint and darker fruits. It opens up with time in the glass and is a big, powerful Cote Rotie that’s loaded with potential. Give bottles another 2-4 years of cellaring and enjoy over the following decade or more.
More reviews from the Wine Advocate’s Jeb Dunnuck from the December 30, 2016, Issue #228.
2014 M. Chapoutier Ermitage l’Ermite
The inky black/purple-colored 2014 Ermitage l’Ermite is more firm, backward and mineral driven than the sexier Pavillon, offering fabulous notes of scorched earth, wood smoke, crushed violets, and both blackcurrant and crème de cassis. An utterly profound effort, it defines the more charming nature of the vintage, displaying building tannin and one seriously long finish. Forget bottles for 5-7 years and enjoy over the following two decades.
2014 M. Chapoutier Ermitage les Greffieux
The 2014 Ermitage Les Greffieux offers a big mouthful of fruit as well as a more gamey profile in its black olive, beef blood, smoke and ripe dark fruits. This cuvée comes from the middle of the slope (which is slightly higher up in the Greffieux parcel) and is aged in 20% new oak. Drink this full-bodied, meaty, rich and unctuous beauty anytime over the coming two decades.
2014 M. Chapoutier Ermitage le Pavillon
The 2014 Ermitage le Pavillon is another wine from this team that defies the vintage. Full-bodied, concentrated, impeccably balanced and seamless, with classic notes of crushed rocks, graphite, cassis and blackcurrants, it hits the palate with no hard edges, has a great mid-palate and possesses sweet tannin. Michel commented that this wine reminded him of the 1982, and while it offers pleasure even today, it won’t hit maturity for another decade.
2014 M. Chapoutier Ermitage le Méal
The sweetly fruited, downright sexy 2014 Ermitage le Meal offers plenty of raspberry jam, toasted bread and floral notes in a ripe, expansive, mouth-filling style. Like all the wines here, the tannin quality is incredible. You can drink this today with ample pleasure, but it will keep for two decades.
2014 M. Chapoutier Saint Joseph le Clos
The two flagship releases from St Joseph include the Le Clos and Les Granits. From a difficult vintage, I was shocked at the quality of the 2014 St Joseph Le Clos; this warmer, east-facing vineyard continues to impress. Full-bodied, beautifully concentrated and impeccably balanced, it has a liquid-rock character as well as notes of cassis, blackberries, crushed flowers and graphite. Brought up in 30% new French oak, it’s a sensational St Joseph that will be approachable in another 2-3 years and have 15-20 years of prime drinking.
2014 M. Chapoutier Cote Rotie la Mordorée
On another level, the 2014 Côte Rôtie La Mordorée is a perfumed, incredibly layered and even sexy 2014 that has lots of black raspberry fruits, flowers, potpourri, and spice aromas and flavors. It’s a deeper, richer wine than the Les Bécasses, has solid mid-palate depth and sweet tannin. It will drink well for at least a decade.
2014 M. Chapoutier Crozes Hermitage les Varonniers
I always think of this cuvée as a mini-Hermitage (sometimes not so mini) and the 2014 Crozes Ermitage Les Varonniers has lots of crushed rock-like minerality (and a black powder/ozone character), as well as plenty of cassis and blackcurrant fruit, beautiful concentration and ripe tannin. It’s a classic, balanced effort to drink over the coming decade, as well.
2014 M. Chapoutier Cornas les Arênes
The 2014 Cornas Les Arenes is another outstanding wine that offers textbook notes of black olives, blackberries, raspberries, peppery herbs and ample minerality. Drink this medium to full-bodied, rounded, elegant beauty through 2024.
2014 M. Chapoutier Cote Rotie les Bécasses
The least expensive Côte Rôtie is the 2014 Côte Rôtie Les Bécasses, an outstanding wine that shows the forward, elegant and charming style of the vintage. Offering up notes of strawberries, black raspberries, flowers and spice, this medium-bodied effort is silky and lightly textured on the palate, with sweet tannin. Drink it over the coming 7-8 years.
2014 M. Chapoutier Saint Joseph les Granilites
The 2014 reds are perfect restaurant wines and they have approachable, pure characters that make them already impossible to resist. The juicy and fresh 2014 St Joseph Les Granilites offers lots of sweet raspberry fruits, crushed flowers and spice in a medium-bodied, elegant, lively, lightly textured style. Brought up mostly in tank, it has a Pinot Noir-like silkiness and will need to be enjoyed over the coming 6-7 years.
2014 M. Chapoutier Saint Joseph Deschants
The 2014 reds are perfect restaurant wines and they have approachable, pure characters that make them already impossible to resist. A good example is the 2014 St Joseph Deschants, which is a charming, granite-influenced beauty that offers lots of blackberry, black raspberry and pepper in a medium-bodied, supple and elegant style.
The "2014 Châteauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac is one of the wines of the vintage and offers shocking levels of concentration and mid-palate depth," writes Jeb Dunnuck.
Guillaume Ginther of Le Coq Rico Wins Pâté Croûte American Finale, Will Compete in World Championship at M. Chapoutier
Guillaume Ginther. the executive chef at Le Coq Rico in New York City, has won a spot at the World Championship of Pâté-Croûte, taking first place in the inaugural Pâté Croûte American Finale at the Consulate General of France in New York City.
Ginther will join 11 other contestants at the Championnat du monde de pâté Croûte (“World Pie-Making Championship”) on December 5 at the renowned French winery M. Chapoutier in Tain-L’Hermitage.
Second place at the American Finale went to Eric Gauthier of Ateliers & Saveurs in Montreal, whose prizes include a dinner in Montreal hosted by Michel Chapoutier. Nicolas Rafa of Le District in New York City finished in third place, winning a whole pig from D’Artagnan.
The World Championship of Pâté-Croûte is sponsored by D’Artagnan Gourmet Food, M. Chapoutier, Champagne Duval-Leroy, the French Consulate General, the French Cheese Board and Terlato Wines.
The November 15, 2016, issue of the Wine Spectator has a new report on the Rhône Valley, and M. Chapoutier is highlighted in several instances.
- The M. Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape Barbe Rac 2013, with a score of 96 points, is listed among the “Top Other Châteauneuf-du-Pape.”
- Several Chapoutier wines are among the “Top Other Northern Rhone”:
Ermitage White L’Ermite 2013 (98 points)
Ermitage L’Ermite 2013 (97 points)
Ermitage Le Meal 2013 (96 points)
Ermitage Le Pavillon 2013 (96 points)
Ermitage White de l’Oree 2013 (96 points)
Ermitage White Le Meal 2013 (96 points)
Ermitage Les Greffieux 2013 (95 points)
- The Côtes du Rhône White Belleruche (88 points) is on the list of “Top Rhône Values.”
- In the text of his piece, author James Molesworth notes that the “M. Chapoutier Ermitage White L’Ermite 2013 (98, $615) is another scintillating white from this producer, showing the energy and exuberant fruit that are the hallmarks of the ’13 whites.”
- Finally, in this same November 15, 2016, issue, the “Savvy Shopper” feature zeroes in on wines that “have the flavor and structure for autumn dishes,” and Crozes-Hermitage White Petite Ruche 2015 (92 points) makes that list.
"The 2015 vintage of Chapoutier reds from Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie and beyond will be remarkable," says the Spectator's James Molesworth.