98 points: M. Chapoutier Ermitage White L’Ermite 2012
Features a weighty core of honey-edged melon, yellow apple, jasmine and white peach flavors, but this is racy and vibrant overall, with dried chamomile, quinine and fleur de sel notes running from start to finish. The finish ripples with energy and minerality, while the fruit courses on. Drink now through 2025. From France.—J.M.
97 points: M. Chapoutier Ermitage White de l’Orée 2012
Densely layered, with ginger geleé, creamed pineapple, heather honey and lemon shortbread notes, all offset by a racy salted butter spine. Bright honeysuckle and chamomile accents dapple the finish, which shows terrific length and definition. Drink now through 2022. From France.—J.M.
96 points: M. Chapoutier Ermitage White Le Méal 2012
This rolls along, featuring a honeyed edge and straw, heather and creamed apple notes, all gilded with pineapple, papaya and Cavaillon melon accents. Long and luxurious, with an echo of dried chamomile lending just the right amount of spine for balance. Drink now through 2020. From France.—J.M.