A zesty version, with lots of enticing pomegranate, loganberry and blackberry fruit, liberally laced with brambly tannins and backed by mouthwatering anise, bergamot and blood orange notes. The minerality on the long finish more than offsets the almost rambunctious fruit. Just needs a little time. Best from 2018 through 2030. From France.—J.M.
94 points: M. Chapoutier St.-Joseph Les Granits 2012
This has a lovely smoldering feel, with singed bay and dark olive notes studding the core of blackberry, black cherry and plum paste flavors. The long, iron-infused finish has great cut despite the heft of the fruit, revealing a sanguine echo that adds length and contrast. Gorgeous. Best from 2017 through 2025.—J.M.
93 points: M. Chapoutier St.-Joseph White Les Granits 2012
Intense, with salted butter, quinine and chamomile notes lending this a racy edge, while creamed melon, pear and Jonagold apple flavors form the core. The long finish features a buried mineral element, while a singed hazelnut aroma emerges in the end. Drink now through 2019.—J.M.