M. Chapoutier

Jancis Robinson’s Wine of the Week: TNs for Les Granits 2007 St-Joseph Blanc

From Jancis Robinson’s Wines of the Week:

May I recommend that you find a wine collector friend who believes in generously sharing the contents of his or cellar? Last Saturday we were treated to a quite incredible array of mature Hermitage La Chapelles including the near-mythical 1961. See A birthday dinner for six for more details.

The wine that our wine provider chose to serve before all these magnificent Hermitages was a white Rhône, chosen with care because we’d discussed this particular wine less than a week previously, agreeing that we both enjoyed Chapoutier’s single-vineyard bottling of white St-Joseph, Les Granits. I rarely see it other than when Michel Chapoutier is launching his Sélections Parcellaires single-vineyard bottlings, and I often find that the wine is almost as good as his much, much more expensive bottlings of white Ermitage, as he calls Hermitage.

But last weekend we were treated to a fully mature M Chapoutier, Les Granits 2007 St-Joseph Blanc with more than five years in bottle. Chapoutier is a big fan of Marsanne, which makes very big wines, but they have the lovely honey-and-herbs character that defines good white Hermitage, as well of course as lots of body and relatively low acid. This example was 14.5% and I don’t think I would keep it much longer, but it was extremely luscious, dry overall, with (just) enough nerve and a rather lovely pear-juice sensation on the finish. But this is a wine you can enjoy much younger than this. I have enthusiastic notes on 2011, 2010, 2009 (especially), 2008, 2007 and 2005.

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